Monday, May 30, 2011

The Big Circuit -- May 26, 2011

Our plan this day was to see four things on a big circuit of the southern Black Hills: Custer State Park, Wind Cave National Park, Crazy Horse Memorial, and Mt. Rushmore National Monument.  More than anything this turned out to be a nice drive on curvy roads on a nice day.  The lesson we RELEARNED today was that YOU MUST NOT RELY SOLELY ON YOUR GPS!!  GET AND USE A GOOD MAP OF THE AREA.  Using our GPS we at first missed Custer State Park AND the Wind Cave National Park.  But we DID find Crazy Horse.  However all was not lost since I found some decent samples of mica.


And I really liked this stand of aspen trees that still had not leafed out.



The story of how the Crazy Horse Memorial came to be is quite interesting.  It is a story of one man's dedication as sculptor, dynamite expert, and social commentator.  His wife and family bought into his vision and have expanded upon it.  It is a legacy that will continue for generations and immortalizes the words of Crazy Horse:  "My lands are where my dead lie buried."  Many controversies have arisen over the building of the memorial.  I feel it memorializes the best of human nature:  The desire to live in peace and security.  See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crazy_Horse_Memorial


CRAZY HORSE -- BRONZE MODEL & STONE MEMORIAL



CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL


CRAZY HORSE MEMORIAL -- CLOSE-UP


In the Custer State Park we learned why it was named for Custer.  Apparently Custer camped nearby before the Battle of the Little Bighorn.  He also discovered gold in the Black Hills.  It was here that we encountered the wild asses...........



..............and the largest herd of bison..............


.........................as well as the largest pronghorn herd that we had seen heretofore.


We also really liked the State Ranger Station built in the 1930s by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps).  Notice the strong log and rock fence with cattle guard at the entrance to keep out the bison.


 A drive that is really special is the Iron Mountain Road which has several tunnels on it.  Coming out of one this is the view...........


Can you see the four presidents of Rushmore in the gray rock in the lower center of the photo?

Here's a better view of Mt. Rushmore -- and I prefer this angle than that provided at the Mt Rushmore Visitors Center:


Several of our days in Rapid City were complete rainouts, so we really enjoyed the perfect weather we had this day.


Sunday, May 29, 2011

Good Times in the Badlands

Heading east on May 25, 2011 from Rapid City on I-90 to see the Badlands, we saw a single pronghorn in a field off to the right.


Two things you don't see in this photo, which we didn't see either until we pulled out the trusty binoculars, are her little fawn hunkered down nearby and a coyote further away.  The mom was obviously agitated.  She crossed the barbed wire fence in the background.  Her baby crawled under it.  Then we noticed that the mom started running away from the fawn's location at a pretty good clip.  In a couple of minutes she was much farther away and had crossed back to this side of the fence again.  This is where we finally realized what she was doing.  A coyote was trying to grab her fawn and she was luring it away.  Next thing we knew she darted straight at the coyote.  He took off, zigzaging to avoid mom's charge.  This happened several times.  The coyote always just managing to escape the mom pronghorn's charges.  Finally she chased him back across the fence and over a hill, where they disappeared from view.  Noboby else whizzing by us on the interstate had any idea of the little nature drama that had just taken place.

At Wall SD we turned south and headed into the Badlands.  I wanted to show Lynne the amazing thing about the Badlands, which is how they just drop away from the land surface on which you approach them.  To understand that, check out this video, if you haven't already: 




Lily:  "Where did Sherman go?
Lynne:  "Don't go there?  BTW, where is the insurance policy?"


Actually, I survived!!

A panoramic shot of the Badlands:



We added several more FIRSTs to our travels on this day:

Our FIRST Yellowbelly Racer  --  An Open Range, Grasslands Snake



Our FIRST Close-up View of a Prairie Dog Colony


 I don't know what has attacted these four pups' attention.  Obviously it is not us.  Perhaps it's.........


Our FIRST Bison



This bison (with ox-pecker bird aboard) is considering whether or not to charge.  Thankfully he decided not to.
 A few more shots...............




How are the Badlands formed?  Simply, by erosion.  Specifically, this hoodoo is formed by raindrop erosion, which detaches the rock particles, and flowing water, which carries off the detached rock particles.

Evidence of the erosion is provided by this benchmark which was placed here by the U. S. Bureau of Public Roads in 1959.  It was placed ON THE GROUND SURFACE at the time.  Today, the ground surface is almost 1 foot lower.  That is how much erosion has taken place at this site in 52 years.




Thursday, May 26, 2011

Reptiles and Rocks

Reptile Gardens is located across the road from Happy Holiday Campground where we are staying in Rapid City.  They have an assortment of some of the world's most interesting snakes.  They also have some other interesting reptiles as well as some beautiful birds.

PUFF ADDER



BLACK MAMBA



KING COBRA



PRAIRIE RATTLER



KOMODO DRAGON



GIANT TORTOISE



MACAWS



GEODES



Reptile Gardens has a fantastic rock and mineral shop together with their typical wares which appeal to children.  Among them are these fantastic amethyst and citrine geodes.  One of the specimens (the one behind my cap--for scale) has a price tag on it of $8,000.


Monday, May 23, 2011

Arrival in Rapid City SD -- Monday, May 23, 2011

This is how we are traveling............



So far we have spent extended time in St Joseph MO and Onawa IA. We also plan to stay several days here in Rapid City. 

We saw some great old buildings in St Joe like the C. C. Hax Home in the Museum Hill Historic District.

This is the city located at the western end of the railroad in 1860 and the eastern end of the Pony Express which only lasted for 19 months starting in April 1860.  Riders left St Joe carrying the mail to Sacramento CA riding the 2,000 miles in 10 days.  Although overtaken by the arrival of the telegraph it has been indelibly imprinted in American Western Lore.  Below is a closeup of the Pony Express Monument.
(continuing)

While we were at Onawa IA (70 miles north of Omaha NE on I-29) we planned for me to put the kayak on the Platte River for a float, but it ended up being too windy, so we just had a picnic lunch on a sandbar.  Lily loves exploring.  I thought this was the Platte, but it was actually the Elkhorn River, a tributary of the Platte. 


This is the Platte River several miles upstream from Omaha NE, where it joins the Missouri River.  This river originates in the Colorado Rockies, flows north through a fantastic canyon into Wyoming, before turning east and flowing by Scotts Bluff NE (a landmark of the Oregon Trail pioneers), through the Sand Hills of western Nebraska where it picks up massive loads of sand and becomes a shallow, braided (many channel) stream before emptying into the Missouri River.



On the way to/from the Platte we drove through the little town of Fremont NE (named after another famed western explorer).  I loved the Chamber of Commerce building (originally the U. S. Post Office) ....................


 ...................with its bench out front which was covered in a city map with old and new photos of town landmarks.

 Leaving Onawa IA, we headed north on I-29, passing through (but not stopping at) Sioux City IA and Sioux Falls SD before heading west on I-90.  We had to stop by Mitchell SD to see the unique Corn Palace which is decorated in murals of local grains with a different theme EVERY year.  See this link: http://www.cornpalace.org/


CLOSEUP -- shows the different varieties of corn used in the murals.




(NOTE:  The story below will be repetitious for some of you because we are trying to bring everyone up-to-date and some of you received this story already by email.
I have corrected errors in the original email.)

Three days ago we arrived at Chamberlain, South Dakota (we were actually staying at an RV park in the small town of Oacoma).  It is on a lake created by a dam on the Missouri River.  Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery arrived here about September 16, 1804.  Clark saw his first of several animals:  the extremely swift pronghorn, the long-leaping jack rabbit (he measured its jumps at 21 feet), a few days before they had encountered their first "barking squirrels" (prairie dogs one of which they went to great lengths to try to catch), they saw their first magpie here, and their first mule deer (I saw a small group of these this evening just after sunset), their first "prairie wolfs" (coyotes), and a large herd of bison, which Clark estimated at 3,000. 

This evening while I was waiting for the sun to set, about 8:38 pm, I heard a coyote yipping and then ending with a howl.  Then it was answered by another in a different direction.  Just a few seconds later another across the Missouri River, at at least 3 miles distant answered loud and clear.  I could not believe how far their yips and howling could carry.  The wind was blowing in my direction and I was up on a high hill overlooking the river, both of which no doubt played a part.  Also today on our drive to this location I saw a beautiful male pheasant taking flight.  The bison have of course been replaced with large herds of beef cattle.  We are definitely now on the Great Plains with their sweeping vistas and "big sky".

This is where I was standing when I heard the coyote chorus...........


Yesterday we got up at Wall SD, home of the world famous Wall Drug.  If you haven't heard of it (like Lynne) just drive I-90 from the east or the west and you will know ALL about it before you get there from the dozens of signboards advertising it along the way.  Check out this link:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_Drug.  Lynne wasn't impressed as I was hoping!  (I think she has more fun at Walmart!!)

Driving over from Wall SD yesterday we stopped at a rest area on the banks of the Cheyenne River which is normally dry but was close to flood stage with muddy water.  Lily's investigations indicated (by the mud up to her knees) that it had been above flood stage just the day before.  After her scientific hunger was sated she settled down for a nap and I pulled out my bike to take a ride back east on the interstate (don't do this when YOU take your next trip, although I highly recommend it) 5 miles to see what the beautiful purple flowers were on the hills adjacent to the road.  I saw some very nice surprises along the way.  Such as wild turkeys putting on a show..........


Here is what I went back to see.  I thought it was a wild prairie flower.


Instead, I found out it was alfalfa in bloom...........


But there were two other wild prairie surprises........possibly a lily............


............and this yellow beauty...........


At about mile-marker 85 on I-90, on the north side of the road, I saw a prairie dog colony with 3 little sentinels standing erect on top of their dirt mounds.  I was sorry Lynne missed them.  She has not seen them in the wild.  This was our first sighting of these cute little prairie creatures.  Sorry, no picture yet.

About 35 miles east of Rapid City we caught our first glimpse of the Black Hills.  Rapid City lies just east of them.

Today they we are confined to camp because of a heavy fog and mist that has settled in.